WORKBENCH

How effective are Noch’s latest Gras-Master 4.0 tools? Peter Marriott road-tests these innovative devices and compares them to their predecessor.

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER MARRIOTT

Electrostatic grass adds authentic texture to scenic areas, especially when used in conjunction with other products, such as poly fibres and foam bushes.

Last year marked the 20th anniversary of Noch’s electrostatic grass planting tools and, to celebrate the milestone, the German manufacturer launched two new products: the Gras-Master 4.0 and Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI.

Both tools are now rechargeable, in contrast to the previous need for a 9V or several AA batteries. Instead, a separate cable is supplied with a USB-C port fitted to the tool and a USB-A connector for a power source, which is not supplied. Suitable USB power packs are available from Amazon and several other retailers.

After testing both products extensively over the past year, I thought it would be useful to share my experiences. But first, for those new to the chat, here’s a summary of how electrostatic grass-planting tools work…

The system employs a hand-held electronic device that creates a high-voltage electrostatic field between the tool and the scenery. The baseboard surface needs to be linked to the tool in order to complete the necessary circuit, so a grounding clip and wire are provided, which can be attached to a nearby rail or, preferably, a steel nail temporarily inserted into the scenic base. It helps if this nail is driven into an area of wet PVA glue.

A selection of plastic grass fibres (available in many different colours and lengths) is placed inside the tool and, when power is switched on, they become energised with a static charge. Gently shaking the tool over the prepared scenic area, which has been covered in a layer of wet adhesive, allows the fibres to pass through a metal sieve screen, which prevents clumping and allows the ‘grass’ to land in an upright fashion, thanks to the electrostatic polarity between the tool and the base.

The results can look spectacular, especially when various fibre shades and lengths are blended. It’s certainly a far cry from the coloured sawdust of yesteryear, and much less hassle than dealing with teddy bear fur and other similar materials.

KEY UPDATES

The rechargeable feature is certainly an improvement over earlier battery-operated tools, and I find it takes around 3-4 hours to achieve a full charge from empty. There’s a handy LED on the base of the tool to alert the user if the power is flagging. It shows red when the charge is failing and green when fully juiced up and ready for use.

The Gras-Master 4.0 generates around 15kV of static charge, while the Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI has an adjustable output of between 11-20kV, controlled via a dial on the base of the tool. In comparison, the battery-operated Gras-Master 3.0 generates a maximum of 11kV.

The new tools have a useful stand built into the body so they can be stood safely on the workbench, removing the risk of them rolling off onto the floor. One of my earlier Gras-Masters did just that, so I can see this is a worthwhile change.

Earlier Noch Gras-Masters featured a single built-in fibre container, fixed to the top of the tool. This meant that the interchangeable sieve covers (which separate the fibres as they fall out of the tool) needed to be removed from the container before the fibres could be topped up or changed.

Now, the containers themselves are designed to twist on and off the tool, allowing them to be filled on the workbench, making the job less fiddly. It also raises the possibility of loading several containers with fibres of varying lengths and colours, which can be switched over as necessary, speeding up the treatment of larger areas. Of course, such a strategy would require buying a few extra containers (only one is supplied), but it’s worth considering if you – or your club – are working on larger layout projects.

As is common with these tools, both Noch Gras-Master 4.0 devices feature a cable and crocodile clip to connect to the baseboard to complete the necessary ‘circuit’, allowing the electromagnetic field to be created. Usefully, this cable is now red, which differentiates it from the black charging cable. The cable is very flexible and less unwieldy compared to the ones fitted to earlier tools, and I found it easier to work with.

Additionally, there are now detailing accessories plus a fibre container for dealing with large areas of grass. So, this can be seen as a whole new grass planting range, rather than just another updated tool. In fact, it represents a significant step-change for Noch’s Gras-Master system, one of the biggest since its introduction in 2005.

TESTING THE TOOLS

I pitted the new Noch Gras-Master 4.0 and 4.0 PROFI against the previous 3.0 device, in each case using a blend of Woodland Scenics 4mm, 7mm and 12mm grass fibres, planted into Woodland Scenics Static-Tac adhesive, which is specially formulated for this purpose. I chose not to evaluate the tools with 2mm grass fibres, because any tool would plant these short fibres easily.

All of the tests were done within 30 minutes of each other, and the adhesive was painted onto pieces of cardboard at the same time to make the tests as fair as possible.

HOW DID THEY COMPARE?

On a full charge, the Gras-Master 4.0 can plant grass for up to 4 hours continuously. The tool has a simple on/off switch, and the device worked well with 4mm and 7mm grass fibres, although it didn’t do quite as well as the PROFI tool with 12mm fibres.

That said, I have still to find any electrostatic grass planting tool that plants 12mm fibres satisfactorily. In my experience, these long fibres tend to droop once planted and, in truth, I tend to avoid using them wherever possible. I find it much better to build up multiple layers of shorter grass fibres, which tend to perform better.

The Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI can plant grass for between 3 and 10 hours, depending on the voltage setting. The rotary voltage switch is easy to operate, and I tested the PROFI tool using 7mm fibres with low, medium and high settings. On the high (20kV) power setting, the fibres clearly performed better than on the lowest (11kV) position, with the more intense electrostatic field ensuring more of the fibres stood upright. Indeed, the fibres audibly sizzled and zinged as they left the sieve on full power!

In contrast, my older Gras-Master 3.0 (released in 2020) uses eight 1.5Volt AA-type batteries and is not rechargeable like the two other tools. Compared to the other two models, it performed poorly, with very few of either the 7mm or 12mm fibres standing vertically once the adhesive had dried. That said, the batteries were some months old, but replacing eight AA batteries at a time is not that cheap.

DECISIONS, DECISIONS…

Although around £80 more expensive than the regular Gras-Master 4.0, a model club or professional layout builder may find the 4.0 PROFI kit preferable, thanks to the overall package, which includes a standard interchangeable fibre container, plus a larger (XL) flock container and a Detail Flocker, each of which has matching sieves (coarse, medium, fine) for different grass fibre lengths. The PROFI kit also comes with a handy carry bag providing easy transportation and storage of the tool and various components. Flock Change Containers are available separately for both the Gras-Master 4.0 and 4.0 PROFI (product ref. 60127, £21.50), complete with bayonet locks for quick changes between fibre colours and sizes. The transparent container allows the user to keep an eye on how much material remains and comes with three sieves for different fibre lengths.

The Gras-Master 4.0 Detail Flocker add-on unit (ref. 60128, £32.50) is also available separately, along with the XL Flock Container (ref. 60129, £38.00), as provided with the 4.0 PROFI set. The Detail Flocker is great for reaching into awkward corners of a layout or between structures and trees, while the large capacity of the XL container reduces the need to keep refilling the device when treating larger areas.

Another Noch accessory worth considering is the set of Grass Stamps (ref. 60137, £32.50), supplied as a pair: one large and one small, plus an adhesive tray in which to dip them. The idea is to create random patches of wet glue on the surface, into which grass fibres can be planted, thus avoiding an overly uniform appearance. Noch’s range is available from most model shops and online retailers and, with a bit of shopping around, savings can be made on the standard retail prices.

A sizeable investment for modellers they may be, but Noch has poured two decades’ worth of research and development into their latest generation of electrostatic grass planting tools – and it shows.

What you will need

SHOPPING LIST

◆ Noch 60120 Gras-Master 4.0
Price: £205.00

◆ Noch 60125 Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI
Price: £285.00
Availability: Noch stockists or Gaugemaster
Web: www.noch.com, www.gaugemasterretail.com

STEP BY STEP

1 The new Noch tools feature interchangeable grass fibre containers. Two different sizes are supplied with the 4.0 PROFI, and a single container is supplied with the 4.0 tool.

2 Here, the container has been filled with 4mm grass fibres before the appropriate sieve filter is attached. I’ve used the medium-sized sieve. The sieves are a simple screw fit.

3 The containers slot into place in the main device with bayonet-style fittings. Two white ‘pips’ on the stem of the tool must align with two dimples on the grass fibre container.

4 Here, the grass carrying container is firmly fixed to the tool with the white ‘pip’ in position holding the container in the correct spot ready to plant grass fibres.

5 Applying a little grass glue to the landscape. It is better not to paint glue over the entire surface to create patchy, more realistic looking grass and weeds.

6 Attaching the alligator clip on the tool to a steel nail located near the wet PVA-type glue. This helps to create the necessary circuit, allowing the electrostatic grass to be planted effectively.

7 A green light indicates it has sufficient power available for operation. It turns red when the tool needs to be recharged. This is the PROFI tool, with adjustable power control.

8 With the tool switched on, you gently move it over the area of wet glue, depositing the fibres into place. The electrostatic charge forces the fibres to stand upright.

9 The finished results, showing the advantage of mixing up slightly different shades of and lengths of fibres. Building up successive layers of fibres adds even more texture.

Safety first

Electrostatic grass planting tools are not recommended for use by children under 14, and safety instructions should be studied before use. Do not touch the internal contact surfaces when the tool is switched on, and use the tool in line with the instructions, especially with regard to periods of continuous operation.

If you have an implanted electronic medical device, such as a pacemaker, it is wise to consult a doctor before operating an electrostatic grass planting tool due to the strong electromagnetic field created.

Full operating and safety manuals for each tool can be downloaded for free from the Noch website, www.noch.com

PETER’S VERDICT

PROS

● Several worthwhile improvements for both tools, especially the ability to recharge them rather than buy new batteries.

● The carry case for the PROFI tool is handy for storing the tool and its accessories safely.

● Excellent all-round performance.

CONS

● Cheaper grass planting tools are available.

● Buying additional grass fibre containers will increase costs.

● Having the power switch on the base of the tool takes some getting used to.

The Detail Flocker, supplied with the 4.0 PROFI versions, is a long, flexible extension to the Gras-Master, ideal for reaching into tight spots on a layout. It’s also available as an optional extra for the Gras-Master 4.0.

Noch’s first Gras-Master tool arrived in 2005 and transformed the model scenic landscape, making it easier to achieve lifelike results.

The new Noch Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI package comes in a handy bag and comes complete with a range of accessories, including a Detail Flocker attachment, interchangeable fibre containers and various sieve filters.

The separate, interchangeable fibre containers allow them to be filled away from the tool and the clear material makes it clear when a refill is needed.

Different sieve filters can be swapped over to suit different fibre lengths and prevent clumping of the material as it leaves the tool.

Noch released its latest Gras-Master 4.0 tool in 2025, which does away with the need for separate batteries in favour of a USB-charged power pack. Note the convenient stand incorporated into the handle to prevent it rolling onto the floor (it happens!).

Featuring an adjustable voltage control, the output of Noch’s Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI can be tailored to suit the size and quantity of grass fibres to be planted.

The XL container, supplied with Gras-Master 4.0 PROFI and optional for the regular 4.0 tool, is perfect for treating wide open spaces and farm fields.

Both new tools are supplied with USB charging cables and take up to 4 hours to restore to full power once the power has run out. LED status lights help the user know how much ‘juice’ remains.

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HOW TO

One of George Dent’s favourite diesel types gets the weathering treatment…

PHOTOGRAPHY: GEORGE DENT

I’ve written before in Model Rail about my childhood affinity for the BR Class 31s, as they were a daily sight in my locality, heading expresses to and from Liverpool Lime Street, hauling Speedlink freight services or busily shuffling engineers wagons.

Never the most glamorous or popular of BR’s classic diesels, the Brush Type 2s nonetheless proved their worth on a diverse range of tasks, with many operational in preservation and the odd main line-registered example still continuing to provide useful service.

Having owned model ‘31s’ from Hornby-Dublo, Airfix and Lima during my youth, I’ve had plenty of experience in detailing and upgrading work, as well as dealing with temperamental power units. Hornby’s updated model from the mid-2000s was a significant upgrade, but the new releases from Bachmann and Accurascale in 2024 raised the bar even higher. With a few examples of the Accurascale model in my collection, from both the original production run and this year’s follow-up batch (featuring a few key improvements), I’ve been dying to find the time to give them a weathered finish and a few embellishments.

The Class 31s suited the original BR Railfreight livery well, with the later ‘red stripe’ version adding vibrancy.

Happily, a bit of unexpected spare time over the summer allowed me to tinker with a trio of the Type 3s: one of the original Mirrlees-powered Class 30s in green livery, plus a pair of Railfreight grey Class 31s in post-1980 refurbished condition.

In the October issue, I explained how 31301 was renumbered to the one-off 31327 Phillips-Imperial, recapturing some fond childhood memories of the real locomotive and an old Lima model I received for my 15th birthday.

Another regular childhood spot was ‘skinhead’ 31110, often seen pootling about Arpley Yard, which Accurascale kindly produced in their initial batch (thanks guys!), so at least I didn’t have to re-number this one too.

At the time of writing, several models from Accurascale’s second Class 30/31 production run are still available from retailers or direct from the manufacturer’s website.

Apart from the change of identity for 31327, the lion’s share of work involved weathering and adding the supplied optional detail fittings. The only new items required were footplate crew, which were a mix of Modelu and Preiser figures, painted in period-specific uniform colours and installed into the cabs. Talking of which, I spent time giving the interiors a grimy, careworn appearance to match the exteriors and allow the superb level of detail to be more visible.

I aimed to show the Railfreight locomotives in the kind of condition I recall from my early teen years, as captured in what primitive photographs I have from the time. Generally, the sides and ends of the body were fairly clean, but with plenty of ingrained dirt trapped within all the various recesses and seams. Those characterful front ends, with the set of inset steps and plated-over door panels, naturally attracted a lot of detritus during their operational life. Roofs and underframes would be noticeably grimier.

In the case of D5501, in its 1960s condition, I went for a slightly heavier coating of dirt on the body, acknowledging the fact that it was likely operating alongside steam traction and collecting more in the way of soot and coal dust.

George’s customised ‘31’ depicts a unique named example from the late 1980s.

Much of the work was achieved with my favoured enamel weathering washes, which settle effectively into and around surface relief and can be manipulated and removed with ease, with dry cotton swabs or rags or, if necessary, with a matching formula of enamel thinners. I always use a specific enamel wash thinners, not paint thinners. Wash thinners are formulated to be milder and less likely to remove or damage underlying paint.

Do test the washes on an inconspicuous area first. I find Bachmann models in particular are susceptible to enamel weathering washes, and I’ve inadvertently removed printed logos and numbers during weathering (see MR352). In the case of these Accurascale models, however, there were no issues with the MIG and AMMO enamel washes.

With the Railfreight duo ready for service, I can turn my attention to a couple of BR blue ‘31/4s’ waiting patiently for their turn in the queue. As I write (in late September), a handful of versions of Accurascale’s latest Class 31 batch were still listed on the manufacturer’s website and across a number of retailers, albeit in limited numbers.

I for one am eagerly awaiting Accurascale’s third batch, which is due early next year, with another interesting Railfreight-liveried ‘31’ among the line-up.

What you will need

SHOPPING LIST

◆ MIG/AMMO enamel weathering washes and thinners, masking tapes, cotton swabs, glue
Availability: Scale Model Shop
Web: www.scalemodelshop.co.uk

◆ RailMatch enamel paints and thinners, Deluxe Materials Glue ‘n’ Glaze and Track Magic
Availability: Gaugemaster
Web: www.gaugemasterretail.com

TOOLS

◆ Modelling knife and spare blades
◆ Tweezers
◆ Fine-nose pliers
◆ Drill and bits
◆ Paintbrushes
◆ Cotton swabs and rags
◆ Airbrush and accessories
◆ Low-tack masking tapes

STEP BY STEP

1 Fresh from the box, the Accurascale Class 31 looks great. But I don’t recall seeing the real 31s anywhere near this clean, so a weathering job was a must. Extra details are supplied, but I’ll fit them later.

2 First task is to remove the bodyshell, which is a simple clip fit that can be released with the aid of a plastic glue spreader inserted between body and chassis in the centre of each side. There are no fiddly wires to unplug. Joy!

3 A quick reminder that I customised one of my Accurascale ‘31s’ last month, giving 31301 a new identity as the unique 31327. New decals came from Railtec and etched nameplates from Fox Transfers. See how it was done in MR357.

4 Weathering began by creating a dirty brown shade of weathering wash using MIG/AMMO enamel washes, brushed over a section of the body at a time and allowing it to begin drying (it starts turning to a matte sheen).

5 With a small piece of cotton rag (an old shirt is ideal), I began wiping away the bulk of the wash in vertical strokes relative to the body, leaving the dark pigment within the grilles and louvres, door seams and other recesses.

6 Enamel washes take hours to dry completely, so you have plenty of time to keep wiping with the rag until the desired effect is achieved. Switch to a clean rag as soon as it becomes clogged. Subtle streaking effects can be created.

7 The process was repeated around the body sides and ends, one at a time. The ends of a ‘31’ are ideal for this, thanks to the recessed steps and panel seams.

8 As you can see, most of the wash was removed, leaving the pigment to enhance the surface detail and introduce some subtle shading. Cotton buds were used on the cabs, as a rag could damage the finer details.

9 With the sides and ends treated, the wash was brushed over the roof, working it into the panel seams, before wiping most of it away with a rag, working laterally so any remaining streaks look like weather staining induced by gravity.

10 The rag removed the bulk of the excess wash, but cotton swabs are better for creating more subtle effects, especially over the cab roofs. Note the dark staining retained around the horn vent and within the gutter rail.

11 The red bufferbeams were treated with the wash, allowing the pigment to settle in all the nooks and crannies. The detail, especially on the buffershanks, now begins to ‘pop’. This is easier to do now before brake pipes are installed.

12 The pristine red fan is visible through the rooftop grille, so it needed toning down with some of the weathering wash blend, leaving pigment between the blades.

13 Accurascale did a fantastic job of modelling the cab interiors, and they look even better with the aid of the weathering wash, brushed on and wiped away, thus enhancing all that lovely detail. Cabs were seldom spotless.

14 Now’s a good time to install the bufferbeam detail if suitable for your layout. A few of the mounting holes needed re-drilling slightly to allow a good fit for the brake hoses. Cyano glue holds them securely.

15 Airbrushing will follow to add extra finesse to the weathering, so masking the interior and exterior of the cab glazing will protect it from overspray. Use a low-tack, model-friendly tape to avoid damaging the paintwork or glazing.

16 These models were spotless straight from the box, but if you see any traces of oil or grease, especially on the underframe, clean it away. Track Magic is ideal for this and is safe on most paint finishes too – but test it first, just in case!

17 After thinning some RailMatch enamel Frame Dirt down to the consistency of skimmed milk, I set my compressor to around 15psi and loaded the airbrush. A fine mist was sprayed around the underframe.

18 The Frame Dirt was also sprayed in a fine mist along the lower edges of the body, with the airbrush angled upwards to mimic how real dirt would be sprayed up from the rails. Subtlety was the aim, so the sprayed paint layer is minimal.

19 Moving to RailMatch Roof Dirt, I added some darker shading around the underframe and then moved to the body, aiming a very fine mist along the shoulder of the roof, following the white cant rail-level stripe.

20 Working from above the model, the Roof Dirt paint was sprayed – again in a fine mist – around the various roof panels, walkways and the fan grille. Supporting your spraying hand with your other hand helps keep the airbrush steady.

21 The final element in the airbrushing stage was a concentrated mist of RailMatch Weathered Black around the exhaust outlets, feathering the spray to suggest a diffusion of sooty deposits in both directions.

22 A welcome feature of Accurascale’s latest ‘31’ production run is the addition of interior detail to the chassis block, visible through the side windows, so I picked this out with a spot of dry-brushing with acrylic paints.

23 I distressed the weathered radiator fan with the tip of an artist’s graphite pencil, suggesting chipped paint on the blades and boss. Similar effects can be achieved with drybrushed metallic paint (a gunmetal shade works well).

24 Be careful when removing the masking tape from the outside of the windscreens, as one of the wipers was dislodged on my model. I took the opportunity to fix it back in place (with Glue ‘n’ Glaze) in a different position to add variety.

25 It’s essential to ensure the wheels are clean, especially after weathering. Track Magic cleaning fluid removes paint and contaminants with the aid of swabs. For non-DCC models, a 9V battery will power the mechanism.

26 The finishing touch to the weathered cab interiors is a set of footplate crew. I employed a mix of Modelu and Preiser figures, painted in appropriate shades and fixed into place with a heavy-duty cyano glue for a reliable bond.

27 Once everything was fully dry (I allowed the fumes from the cyano glue used on the footplate crew 24 hours to evaporate), the bodies were refitted and any areas touched up by hand, as necessary.

28 The green Class 30 needed the disc headcodes fitted. These had been pre-weathered with the enamel washes and were installed with Glue ‘n’ Glaze adhesive, making them easier to remove in future without damaging the paintwork.

In its original, Mirrlees-powered Class 30 form, Accurascale’s model really comes alive after a weathering job.

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Workbench

Peter Marriott dons his high-vis tabard to trial a new method of road-building, complete with pavements and driveways.

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER MARRIOTT

I have built lots of roads over the years in model form, as many of us have, and each time I like to try different methods and materials – with the goal that, hopefully, I am working towards the perfect road in 4mm scale.

Several years ago, I acquired a Noch Road Construction Set (stock no. 60820) that has been quite literally shelved, waiting for an opportunity to come along for me to experiment with it. It offers a unique way of creating model roads and contains fine asphalt granules in an applicator, a refill pack of asphalt granules, and grey acrylic road paint. The contents of the set can make an 8cm wide road with a length of 3m.

Using the kit is a stage-by-stage approach: brush white glue onto the road area; use the sprinkler to spread an even layer of tiny asphalt granules onto the wet glue; then leave the surface to dry. Excess granules can be brushed away and reused later. Once the glue has fully dried, you can paint the road with the supplied grey paint, which also seals in the granules.

The road can be finished with matching street markings, such as those found in the Noch Starter Set Street Markings, number 60740, which contains a street marking pen, a curved ruler, and road marking templates. I used a watercolour pencil and a steel ruler to make the central dotted lines.

SURFACE TENSION

Over the past year, I have found that one of the quickest and cheapest methods for making pavements on various scales is 2mm mounting cardboard cut to size, scribed with a sharp blade, then painted and fixed to the baseboard. The step-by-step process only requires a few basic tools, plus some acrylic paint and white glue. It enables any type of pavement to be made to your bespoke choice of paving slab.

As a final note, road furniture goes a long way to setting the scene, also helping to define the time period that a layout is intended to represent. For this project, I have added a post box and street lamp by EFE and Scenecraft.

OTHER PAVING METHODS

As well as those mentioned here, there are various products available to replicate pavements, including:

◆ Bachmann Scenecraft’s straight and curved pavement pieces, www.bachmann.co.uk

◆ Superquick’s paper sheets of paving slabs and kerbstones that can be glued onto mounting card, www.superquick.co.uk

◆ Wills has several types of paving in its materials range for ‘OO’ scale. These plastic sheets are about 2mm thick and need to be joined end-on-end with model filler to disguise the joins. www.peco-uk.com

◆ Metcalfe Models’ paving slabs are available for both ‘N’ and ‘OO’ gauges. They come in self-adhesive cardboard slabs, sold in sheets with slabs of various sizes; the kerbstones are pre-cut. Laying the slabs is relatively straightforward, good fun, and very satisfying once the job is complete. www.metcalfemodels.com

◆ Scalescenes enables you to print pavements on your home PC and printer and, once you have bought the PDF, you can use it over and over again. These need to be fixed to mounting cardboard, www.scalescenes.com

What you will need

SHOPPING LIST

◆ Mounting cardboard
◆ Noch Road Construction Set No. 60820
Web: www.noch.com
◆ White watercolour crayon
◆ HB pencil
◆ Brown and grey watercolour crayons
◆ PVA adhesive
◆ Noch Grass Glue and Grass
Web: www.noch.com
◆ Black and grey acrylic paints

TOOLS

◆ Selection of flat paintbrushes
◆ A craft knife with a new blade
◆ Steel ruler
◆ Self-sealing cutting board

STEP BY STEP

1 I used Woodland Scenics’ Foam Putty to cover the indentations in the baseboard, which was made from a one-inch-thick sheet of Woodland Scenics Foam.

2 I used a piece of mounting cardboard to apply the Foam Putty, and then, as soon as the paste had fully dried, I used fine sandpaper to remove slight imperfections on the surface.

3 The basic toolkit for making the pavement is a cutting board, craft knife, steel ruler, abrasive stick, white glue, and various paintbrushes for applying the adhesive and the paint.

4 I scribed the mounting cardboard to represent half- and full-sized paving slabs. Kerbstones are possible too, involving a little more work using the steel ruler to guide the knife.

5 I made the driveways and paths for the house from another piece of mounting cardboard. The pencil marks showing where the kerb will be dropped to provide car access.

6 The Noch Road Construction Set (stock No. 60820) contains asphalt granules in an applicator, a refill pack, and acrylic road colour. The set creates an 8cm-wide road, 3m long.

7 I brush-painted Noch Grass Glue over the road area, ready to take the asphalt granules. I used this product because it was what was recommended, but any white glue will do.

8 With the adhesive still wet, I sprinkled on asphalt granules from the supplied shaker pot, just enough to cover all of the adhesive. Then I left the scene until the glue had fully dried.

9 It took several hours on a warm summer’s day for the adhesive to dry and firmly hold the granules. I shook off the excess and carefully put it back in the shaker pot to be reused.

10 The resultant road surface had some great texture to it, and the next job was to paint it with the supplied grey acrylic road paint once the glue had fully dried.

11 I used an older flat paintbrush to paint on the asphalt road, which required a second coat to fully cover the road surface.

12 After the second coat of grey paint, it was time to start painting the pavements. The house on the right would depict a Tarmac driveway; the one on the left would be a lot more run-down.

13 The pavements were painted using mixed acrylic grey and black – and, once dry, some of the paving slabs were also ‘coloured in’ using watercolour crayons.

14 Painting white lines took just a few minutes. Mine were added using a white watercolour crayon supplied with the Noch self-adhesive road markings kit (stock No. 60540).

15 The asphalt granules have also been used to create this private driveway, which looks like it was laid fairly recently, contrasting with the aged appearance of the adjacent road.

16 Check a Highway Code for the same time period as the road to be modelled. Use a soft pencil to mark cracks in the road surface for a straightforward way to improve visual impact.

17 Road furniture really sets the scene, and helps to define the time period that it’s intended to represent. On this project, I have added a post box and a street lamp by EFE and Scenecraft.

18 You can let your imagination run riot when it comes to ‘weathering’ your pavements, roads and driveways, adding patches of weeds, manhole covers and the like.

Pick of the litter

This bird’s-eye view shows off Peter’s finishing touches – we’re liking the odd piece of litter on the verge, as featured in MR356, with Scale Model Scenery’s Litter pack.

Mind the gap!

Today’s roads feature a lot of potholes, as we will all know, so it’s not necessary to make your road perfectly flat and smooth. Why not draw a yellow or white line around your hole to give the impression the local council is aware of the repair to be done. Use the Geoscenics pothole kit (see MR317) to represent these in miniature. Alternatively, they can be painted on using masking tape and a slightly different colour of paint.

Busch has a good range of detailing parts to make a pothole repair gang for ‘HO’/’OO’ scale/gauge. There are various sets of machinery and a figure to operate it, such as a tar boiler with its operative. Both are nicely made and the kit comes together with a selection of barriers, barrels and toolboxes etc. To represent the potholes, Busch sells a set of over 50 of different shapes and sizes. These simply need to be cut off the self-adhesive backing sheet and stuck to the road surface.

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Workbench

George Dent builds – and enhances – a popular plastic kit of a prefabricated provender store hut.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GEORGE DENT

I found many elements of Adrian Walby and Robin Coulthard’s ‘Woodhill Goods’ layout – featured in the previous issue – so inspiring that I was moved to build this small goods facility for one of my own layout projects.

Provender huts were designed to store animal feed and grain products safely, following the common (and longstanding) practice of elevating such stores above ground to reduce the risk of vermin gaining access. Prefabricated concrete and asbestos structures became a common sight around the UK in the 1950s, their modular nature allowing their size and layout to be dictated by local traffic needs.

The provender hut on Adrian and Robin’s ‘Woodhill Goods’ really caught my eye when I first encountered the layout at a Guildex event a couple of years ago, as it seemed ideal for the layout’s deeply rural setting. I’ve recently been researching the long-closed line near my home, and a similar structure stood at the terminus stations. Indeed, it must have only seen a couple of years of rail use, as the line closed in the mid-1950s, but it apparently remained in use for several further decades as a local farmer’s feed store.

Anyway, all this reminded me that I had a ‘OO’ gauge Ratio plastic kit in my stash, so it felt like a good time to put it together.

The subtle surface texture created with the Mr Surfacer 500 gives the structure real character.

FLEXIBLE PACKAGE

Rendered mostly in injection-moulded plastic, the Ratio kit doesn’t simply consist of four walls that join together. Instead, each wall is made up of separate, narrow rectangular panels that slot between upright beams, mirroring how the real structures were assembled. It does pay to study the instructions carefully, as there are several types of beams and, due to their small size, some of the differences are not obvious. But each has a specific role to play, so it’s vital to fix them in the correct place.

It’s also important to ensure the wall sections are straight and true as they’re put together. I began with the two ends, getting the panels and beams straight, allowing them to cure overnight before adding the side panels. Again, a break was allowed before bringing the two halves of the main structure together to ensure everything aligned correctly.

Once the internal floor supports and main cross beams were added, the building began to feel less fragile. To enhance the interior floor, I replaced the supplied component with a sheet of 9in laser-cut planking from Scale Model Scenery. This features excellent recessed plank and nail detail, which really ‘pops’ after painting. For the protective interior wall battens, I eschewed the kit’s white card components, which required cutting out and painting, and used thin strips of real wood instead.

As built from the box, the model takes up a footprint of 90mm by 77mm, including the small loading platform, but the instructions also offer plans for four different British Railways buildings, which can be achieved by combining parts from two kits.

I’m slightly regretting not trying to combine a couple of kits; nevertheless, I’m really pleased with the finished model. The textured finish to the walls and roof is particularly pleasing, achieved by a couple of coats of Mr Surfacer primer, applied by hand-brushing in a stippled fashion. The results are subtle, but it has taken away the plasticky-ness of the kit’s parts.

With a little painting and weathering work, courtesy of an airbrush and a handful of LifeColor acrylic paints, the store hut has really come to life.

What you will need

SHOPPING LIST

◆ LX478-OO 9in Random Planking sheet
Availability: Scale Model Scenery
Web: www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk

◆ Mr Hobby Mr White Putty, Mr Surfacer 500 (40ml jar), Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black, Mr Mahogany Surfacer 1000, Plastic Weld liquid poly cement, Wolverine PVA glue
Availability: Scale Model Shop
Web: www.scalemodelshop.co.uk

◆ LifeColor acrylic paints and thinners, paintbrushes, Iwata airbrush and equipment
Availability: The Airbrush Company
Web: www.airbrushes.com

TOOLS

◆ Knife and spare blades
◆ Cutting mat
◆ Set square
◆ Steel rule
◆ Tweezers
◆ Files and abrasives
◆ Paintbrushes
◆ Airbrush and equipment (optional)

STEP BY STEP

1 The Ratio kit is made up largely of injection-moulded plastic parts and sheets of card for the floor and interior wall battens. Keep the clear plastic packaging to form the glazing.

2 After fitting a fresh blade into my modelling knife, I began carefully cutting the parts from the sprue, making a careful note of which beam goes where, as there are several different types.

3 The parts were bonded with Plastic Weld liquid poly cement, applied with a fine brush. I wasn’t too precious about getting glue on the external faces, as the primer stage will hide it.

4 With the parts aligned against a straightedge, the ends were built up and the gable sections added. Work on a sheet of glass if you can, to avoid bonding the parts to the cutting mat.

5 The assembled ends were left to harden overnight before building up the side panels and corner beams. Assembly looks little fiddly, but it’s pretty straightforward.

6 Installation of the lower cross beams, followed by the corner floor supports, instantly strengthens the building, again checking that the walls are at right-angles to the ends.

7 The two halves of the building have been erected, and the floor supports have been slotted into place. I left these sub-assemblies overnight to cure before proceeding further.

8 While the wall sections cured, I built up the concrete pillars which are then bonded to plinths. Once these had set, they were fettled to remove traces of the seams and excess glue.

9 The slender beams around the door frames bridge the gap between the two halves, but it was adding the small loading platform that added strength to the structure.

10 The pillars could then be added to the base of the cross beams, followed by the access steps to the platform.

11 Things now progressed at a pace, with the door frames and doors fixed into position. I posed one set of doors open, and the others closed. The window frames were also fixed into their apertures.

12 Now for the roof. I wanted to keep the roof loose to allow access to the interior and maybe add lighting in future, so the two panels were bonded lightly at the apex, with the ridge tiles in place, just enough to hold them together.

13 Once the roof panels had begun to ‘tack up’, I lifted the assembly off the walls and made a permanent bond along the inside of the ridge line, aided by scraps of styrene rod as a fillet.

14 Once the bond between the two roof panels had sufficiently hardened, I added the decorative bargeboards along with the ventilators and guttering.

15 A sheet of laser-cut planking from Scale Model Scenery is an upgrade over the original part, which was used as a template to cut the new floor. Once cut to size, it was fixed with PVA.

16 Finishing began with a light coat of Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 500, thinned slightly with cellulose thinners to make it easier to apply, and spread over all of the plastic parts with a brush.

17 After an hour or so, I applied a second coat of thinned Mr Surfacer. This time, as the coating began turning tacky, I dabbed at the surface with the brush to create a random texture, working on small areas at a time.

18 The stippled surface took on a texture akin to the real material. Another primer coat followed, using black and brown Mr Surfacer aerosols to create an overall dark coating.

19 I began painting the topcoats using an airbrush loaded with thinned LifeColor acrylics, initially using a medium grey shade. Sprayed as a light mist, the colour was built up gradually.

20 A second coat of LifeColor acrylics followed, this time with a little light brown and olive drab mixed with the grey, to give it a more lived-in appearance. Again, just a light misting of colour was sufficient.

21 A darker grey, mixed with a drop of olive drab and medium brown, created a generic shade of ‘grime’, which was sprayed around the walls, interior and roof to accentuate detail and create staining between panel joints.

22 The wood flooring was painted with LifeColor acrylics, using a flat brush and a semi-dry-brushing method, moving the brush in line with the planks to mimic grain patterns. The doors, windows and gutters were painted too.

23 Rather than cut out and paint the card interior battens, I cut strips of thin hardwood veneer (pre-stained with dilute grey/brown paint) and fixed them in position with cyano glue.

24 After cutting out and fixing a couple of the supplied signs to the walls, an ultra-fine misting from the airbrush (using a generic dirty brown/ grey shade) added the finishing touches.

25 The replacement planked floor features detail relief, and the interior was filled with sacks from Harburn Hamlet and Ten Commandments, fixed in place with contact adhesive.

IT’S THE SMALL THINGS…

While the Ratio kit parts all slotted together extremely well, there were still a few areas of the assembled kit that benefited from a little filler. In particular, there were a couple of ejector pin markings (caused by the moulding process) on the outer faces of the cross braces. I used a little Mr Hobby white putty to cover these marks and, when fully cured, the areas were abraded smooth with miniature sanding pads.

Taking care of small imperfections like this goes a long way to producing a better model.

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Instructions here!

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