You may have been recently gifted an orchid, or perhaps you already grow a few among your houseplants. Spring is a good time to repot them, but only if they genuinely need it. A quick look at your plant will tell you whether it is time.

Does your orchid need repotting?

Orchids don't have large root systems, although they often produce long roots that grow at unusual angles. In most cases, there is no need to repot for at least a year after buying the plant.

Orchid compost is coarse and contains very little nutrition. Adding more compost will not feed your plant. Regular applications of liquid fertiliser are what keep orchids healthy and flowering well.

Understanding moth orchids

Moth orchids, Phalaenopsis, are the most popular type. Their flowers can last for several months. Once blooms fade, more often appear from the old flower stem.

When plants are well fed, each new leaf should be followed by a new flower stem. As fresh leaves develop, the oldest leaf often dies back. Over time, the plant can grow upwards and become unstable, almost lifting itself out of the pot.

This is the point when repotting is needed. It may be as long as two years after you first bought the plant.

Choosing the right pot and compost

Most orchids are sold in transparent pots. This allows the green-tipped roots to receive light and grow well.

As the plant itself will not be much larger, it's usually best to reuse the same pot. Position the orchid slightly lower in the compost. Moving it into a much larger pot increases the risk of overwatering.

Always use a specialist orchid compost. Never use standard potting compost, which will kill the plant.

Step by step guide to repotting an orchid

• Gently tip the plant out of its pot and loosen the compost from the roots. Trim away any dead material at the base of the plant and remove dead roots.

• Cut off old, dead flower stems. Check around the base for scale insects or mealy bug and remove any brown, dead leaves.

• Place a small amount of fresh orchid compost in the bottom of the pot. Hold the plant in position and add more compost around the roots.

• Shake the pot lightly as you add compost so it settles around the roots. Tap the pot gently to firm the plant at the correct height.

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Whether roasted in olive oil, baked into a light cheese tart or topped with hollandaise sauce, asparagus has long been seen as a luxury vegetable. Young spears are picked when they’re at their most tender and full of flavour, and there’s only a short window to enjoy them each year. The harvesting season runs from late April to early June, and although bunches appear in shops during this time, homegrown asparagus has a depth of taste that’s hard to beat.

Asparagus can be grown from seed, but most gardeners find it easier and quicker to start with crowns, which are bareroot plants sold for spring planting. Some won’t crop in their first year, but once established they’ll supply generous harvests for many seasons.

The best varieties to grow

There are plenty of reliable choices for home growers:

• ‘Mary Washington’, ‘Jersey Knight Improved’ and ‘Connover’s Colossus’ produce classic green shoots and are well‑proven favourites.

• ‘Gijnlim’ is a modern Netherlands variety known for its high yields.

• For something different, ‘Erasmus’ offers purple spears bred for British conditions.

• ‘Pacific Purple’, from New Zealand, produces sweet purple shoots ideal for eating raw in salads.

Choosing bareroot crowns

Crowns are sold at different ages:

• One‑year‑old crowns: ready to harvest in two years

• Two‑year‑old crowns: harvestable one year after planting

• Three‑year‑old crowns: larger and more vigorous, and can be lightly harvested in their first season, but they cost more

Where asparagus grows best

Asparagus prefers a sunny, sheltered spot out of strong winds and in light, free‑draining soil. It can grow in heavier soil, but the ground should be improved first with horticultural grit or sharp sand. Plants can stay productive for 20 years or more, so choose a site where they won’t be disturbed, such as an allotment or designated patch in the vegetable garden.

A raised bed is another good option. A depth of 45–60cm filled with 50% composted manure, 25% topsoil and 25% grit will give the plants the drainage they need.

How to plant asparagus crowns

• Prepare the soil:  Fork the ground to a depth of 30cm, removing weeds and stones. Rake until the soil is fine and then firm it by walking over it with your heels. Rake again to level.

• Dig trenches: Make a trench 20cm deep and 30cm wide. Replace some soil to form a 10cm‑high ridge along the centre.

• Set the crowns: Rest each crown on the ridge, spacing them 30cm apart. Spread the roots evenly down each side.

• Cover and water: Add 5cm of sieved soil over the crowns and water well.

Leave 45cm between trenches, staggering plants in neighbouring rows. As stems appear through the season, gradually add more fine soil. The trench should be fully filled by autumn.

Ongoing care and harvesting

Avoid picking any spears in the first year unless you planted three‑year‑old crowns. Allow the plants to put their energy into building strong root systems. Their ferny stems will reach around 1.5m; cut these down to just above ground level when they turn yellow in autumn.

Keep the bed weed‑free and apply a general fertiliser next spring. When plants are mature enough to harvest, cut spears once they reach about 15cm long, slicing 2.5cm below the soil surface with a serrated knife.

Spotlight on a superfood

Asparagus is rich in vitamins A, B, C and K and contains useful minerals including copper, potassium, calcium and iron. It’s low in calories and sodium and provides plenty of dietary fibre.

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Fresh herbs give any dish a lift, whether you enjoy Thai, Italian or Moroccan flavours. Many are easy to grow and late March is the ideal time to start planting. Herbs vary a lot in how they grow, so understanding their different habits will help you make the most of your space.

Choose the right spot

Most herbs prefer a sunny place with well-drained soil to produce good flavour. Heavy clay is best avoided or improved with organic matter and grit.

Some herbs are hardy shrubs that stay in the garden for years, such as thyme, sage, bay and rosemary. Others are annuals or biennials that need replacing often. Parsley is biennial and usually replaced each year. Coriander only lasts a few months, so it is replaced several times through summer.

Growth habits also vary. Thyme stays neat and low, while lovage and fennel start small but can reach 2m in summer. These taller herbs are best planted at the back or centre of a bed.

Mint is vigorous and is best kept in pots so it does not overwhelm smaller herbs. Parsley is often grown in a dedicated bed and grows well with chives and onions in the vegetable plot.

How to prepare and plant

Set up the bed

• Remove all perennial weeds before planting

• Improve soil with organic matter, grit or sand

• Shrubby herbs rarely need extra fertiliser unless grown in pots

Choose your plants

Nurseries and garden centres offer herbs in many sizes. One sage or rosemary plant is usually enough for most households.

Parsley grows easily from seed if the seed is fresh. A packet of seed offers better value than buying individual plants.

Position plants carefully

Place tall or bulky herbs such as fennel where their full summer height will not block access or shade smaller plants.

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Tuberous begonias are loved for their bold, colourful flowers from late spring through to the first autumn frosts. So it’s hard to believe these beauties start life as rather unattractive tubers.

Brown, knobbly and disc shaped, they feel dry to the touch and are covered in hairy roots. Some describe them as dried up lumps of dirt, others less kindly as miniature cowpats! Yet once potted up indoors in late winter or early spring, they quickly prove their worth.

Within weeks, small shoots appear and grow rapidly, producing a succession of single, semi double or double flowers over many months.

These tender perennials are easy to grow. Flowers come in a wide range of shapes, sizes and shades, including striking two tone forms. Upright, bushy types are ideal for containers and bedding, while trailing varieties shine in hanging baskets and window boxes.

What to grow

‘Nonstop Series’: Still hugely popular, this series is known for performing well even in poor summers. Plants are compact and bushy with large, double flowers in vibrant shades.

‘Illumination Series’: Introduced towards the end of the 20th century, these vigorous, trailing plants cascade to around 45cm. They carry masses of large, rosette like double blooms from June to September.

‘Pendula Group’: A striking trailing type with stems to 40cm long and pointed leaves. Available in pink, red, white, orange and yellow, with both single and double flowers that have an exotic look.

‘Giant Picotee Mixed’: Produces bi-coloured blooms with ruffled edges up to 15cm across on plants around 30cm tall.

‘Crispa Marginata Group’: Large flowers with distinctive crimped edges, as if pressed with crimping irons.

Starting tubers

Planting tubers is straightforward.

• Use 10 to 12cm pots filled with multi-purpose compost for tubers 5cm or larger.

• Position the curved side down and the hollow side facing up (look for tiny pink or white shoots to help identify the top).

• Gently twist each tuber into the compost so the top sits just beneath the surface, then cover with a thin layer of compost. Some gardeners leave the top exposed, but tubers root across their whole surface. Leaving part uncovered can reduce vigour.

• Start smaller tubers in smaller pots or space several evenly in a seed tray, making sure they don't touch to reduce the risk of rotting.

Growing on

Water well and place in a heated propagator to encourage quick growth.

No propagator? No problem! Try this method instead:

• Cover seed trays with cling film

• Place a clear freezer bag over pots and secure with an elastic band

• Sprouts usually appear within two to three weeks. As soon as the first leaves show, remove covers and move plants to a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

Keep the compost evenly moist but never waterlogged. Check the base of pots regularly. When roots appear underneath, move plants into slightly larger containers. If growing in trays, lift and pot up individually when shoots reach about 7.5cm tall, taking care not to damage the roots.

Planting out and ongoing care

Tuberous begonias prefer a sheltered position away from strong winds. They flower best in semi shade. They will tolerate some sun, but foliage can scorch in hot afternoon sunshine. In deep shade, growth may become spindly. From late May, once plants are well grown, they can be planted into baskets or larger containers.

Harden them off first:

• Move plants outdoors during the day

• Bring them back inside at night

• Repeat for a few days, then leave out overnight, covering with horticultural fleece if cold is forecast.

Water regularly through the growing season, especially in hot, dry weather, to avoid checks to growth and keep flowers coming. Feed from late spring to early autumn with a high potash fertiliser to support strong flowering.

At the end of the season…

When stems collapse in autumn, it may be tempting to throw plants away. However, tuberous begonias can be saved for next year.

• Stop watering in late summer

• Allow foliage to die back naturally

• Lift the tubers

• Store them in trays of dry compost

• Keep in a dry, dark, frost free place until spring

With a little care, those humble tubers will be ready to burst back into life and colour the following year.

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Onions can be grown from sets or from seed. Sets are quicker and easier but growing from seed has some real advantages. There’s a much wider choice available, including unusual colours and shapes. Seed is usually cheaper too. Seed-raised plants are also less likely to bolt than sets, particularly red varieties. The key is to start early – March is a great time of year. To get good-sized bulbs, sow by the end of the month.

How to sow onion seeds

You can sow seeds directly into the veg plot where they will grow. However, for faster germination, start them off in a heated propagator. Keep the temperature around 21C and lightly cover the seeds with compost. This helps them germinate more quickly and evenly.

If you have the space, sow two or three seeds per small cell in a tray.

If they all germinate, either:

• Plant the seedlings out as a small group

• Remove the weakest seedling and grow on the strongest

Alternatively, sow seeds in a small tray or pot. Once they’re large enough to handle, transplant them individually into modules to grow on before planting outside.

Onions cope well with transplanting as long as you:

• Avoid damaging the roots

• Prevent the roots from drying out

Planting out

Plant out in April into rich, well-prepared soil that has been raked to a fine tilth.

Spring onions are grown in exactly the same way. You can also sow seeds in small clumps and plant them out together. This method produces a generous crop of smaller bulbs in summer.

Step-by-step sowing guide

1. Prepare your compost: Fill trays or pots with fresh compost. Mixing John Innes compost with multi-purpose compost will support strong seedling growth.

2. Sow the seed: Sow seeds on the surface of pre-watered compost. Cover with a thin layer of compost.

3. Transplant at the right time: Once seedlings begin to straighten up, they are large enough to move into modules, small pots or directly into the garden.

4. Grow in clumps for smaller bulbs: Sow in small groups and plant out together for a heavy summer crop of smaller onions.

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Blue may be a favourite colour, but it’s surprisingly rare in nature. Fewer than one in ten plants have truly blue flowers. This is because plants don’t have a true blue pigment, so to  produce blue blooms they must combine other pigments and adjust factors such as acidity levels within their cells. When this works alongside reflected light, the result can be spectacular.

It’s not done for decoration. Producing blue flowers takes energy, but it helps attract pollinators, which see blue wavelengths more easily than other colours. Here’s how to use blue in your garden, followed by some of the best plants for spring, summer and autumn colour.

How to design with blue flowers

Blue is one of the three primary colours on the colour wheel, alongside red and yellow. The wheel arranges the visible spectrum into a circle, so it’s easier to see how colours relate to each other.

Blue sits on the cool side of the wheel with green and purple. Shades range from deep royal blue and indigo to soft baby blue and powder blue.

Palest blues can:

• Brighten a shady spot

• Appear to glow at twilight

• Sit beautifully with other pastel shades

Blue tones suit the cool, soft light of the northern hemisphere and combine naturally with gentle colours. For a bolder look, pair blue with orange, its opposite on the colour wheel, to create strong contrast.

Spring blue flowers

Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’: The bluest of the pulmonarias, this early flowering perennial is a valuable food source for bees. It partners well with spring bulbs and hellebores. Grow in sun or light shade in soil that does not dry out. H: 40cm S: 45cm.

Myosotis sylvatica: Forget-me-nots produce sprays of tiny pastel blue flowers. They’re ideal for covering bare soil around spring bulbs. These biennials should be sown in May or June for flowers the following spring. They can self seed freely but are easy to remove. H: 30cm S: 20cm.

Scilla sardensis: Previously known as chionodoxa, this spring bulb carries star-shaped azure flowers, up to 12 per stem, above clumps of strappy green leaves.Plant in full sun or part shade in soil that does not become waterlogged. It will gradually spread in the right conditions. H: 15cm.

Summer blue flowers

Centaurea cyanus: The cornflower was once a familiar sight in farmland. This annual suits cottage-style borders or a cut flower patch. Tall, wiry stems with grey-green leaves are topped with vivid blue flowers that attract pollinators. H: 75cm, S: 35cm.

Allium azureum: A distinctive allium with upright stems topped by small, rounded heads of star-shaped blue flowers. Flowering in June, slightly later than many alliums, it prefers well-drained soil. Its compact habit makes it ideal for the front of a border. H: 60cm.

Agapanthus ‘Midnight Star’: Sometimes sold as ‘Navy Blue’, this deciduous variety produces rounded heads of trumpet-shaped flowers in an intense blue.It looks particularly striking planted with rich yellows and oranges. H: 80cm S: 40cm.

Hydrangea ‘Générale Vicomtesse de Vibraye’: One of the best blue mophead hydrangeas, but it must be grown in acid soil to keep its blue colour. In neutral or alkaline soil the flowers turn pink.If your soil is not acid, grow it in a large container filled with ericaceous compost and water with rainwater. H: 1.5m, S: 2.5m

Nigella damascena ‘Miss Jekyll’: Love-in-a-mist is a hardy annual with bright semi-double blue flowers floating above fine, feathery foliage. Decorative, balloon-like seed pods follow. Grow in full sun in fertile, well-drained soil. Sow direct where it is to flower as it dislikes root disturbance. H: 45cm, S: 35cm.

Ipomoea tricolor ‘Heavenly Blue’: A tender climber from South American rainforests. Slender twining stems carry large, funnel-shaped deep blue flowers with white throats. Sow in late March and plant outside after the last frost. H: 4m, S: 50cm

Autumn blue flowers

Salvia patens ‘Guanajuato’: This tall gentian sage produces vibrant blue flowers on upright stems from midsummer into autumn. It is borderline hardy. Take cuttings in late summer as insurance and grow in a sunny site with well-drained soil. H: 1.5m, S: 50cm.

Salvia uliginosa: Known as bog sage, this elegant plant prefers moisture-retentive soil.

Willowy stems carry spikes of azure flowers from August to October. It’s not fully hardy, so apply a mulch for protection and take cuttings. H: 1.5m, S: 80cm

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides: A low-growing, mat-forming perennial that works well as ground cover. Sky blue flowers appear in late summer and autumn, alongside green leaves that turn bronze-red, creating a striking contrast. Grow in full sun or part shade in soil that is neither too dry nor too wet. H: 30cm, S: 50cm

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A garden pond brings movement, sound and life to a space. It provides drinking water for animals and valuable habitat for toads, newts and aquatic insects.

If you don’t have the room, time or budget for a large pond, a mini pond in a container is an easy and rewarding alternative.

Choose the right container

Any watertight container can work.

You could reuse:

• A Belfast sink

• A large plastic tub

• A stone or wooden container

Place it directly on the ground and build up soil, gravel or stones around the sides to soften the edges and bridge the gap between the rim and the surrounding soil.

If you’re unsure whether it’s fully watertight, line it with pond liner for peace of mind.

Position it carefully

Where you place your mini pond makes a big difference.

Choose an open spot away from overhanging trees, as fallen leaves will quickly clog the water. Avoid areas with intense, all-day sun, which can overheat the water and increase evaporation.

Aim for partial shade. This helps keep water levels stable and creates better conditions for wildlife.

Plant it properly

If your container is large enough, plant into aquatic baskets. These have fine holes that hold compost in place while allowing water to circulate.

Use a gritty aquatic compost that’s low in nutrients. This:

• Prevents compost floating into the water

• Reduces cloudiness

• Discourages excess algae

• Anchors plant roots securely

Top the compost with a layer of gravel to keep everything in place.

Avoid using pesticides or herbicides nearby. A healthy pond relies on a balanced, chemical-free ecosystem.

Finally, add a simple escape route. Position logs or stones so wildlife can easily climb in and out.

Step-by-step: building your mini pond

Step 1: Create a base. Add a layer of gravel to the bottom of the container. Place bricks on top to act as raised platforms for pond plants at different depths.

Step 2: Fill with the right water. Pond life is sensitive to chemicals. Use rainwater if possible. Alternatively, fill a bucket with tap water and leave it uncovered for 24 hours to allow many chemicals to dissipate before adding it to the pond.

Step 3: Add plants. Don’t overcrowd the space. A few well-chosen plants will establish more successfully.

Good options include:

• Water violet (Hottonia palustris) – an excellent oxygenator

• Barred horsetail (Equisetum japonicum) – bold, architectural stems

• Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) – early flowers that provide nectar

What to expect

Once established, your mini pond will quickly become a wildlife hotspot. Frogs, water snails, pond skaters and even dragonflies may pay a visit.

Build it – and they will come!

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Early spring is the perfect time to kick-start the season in the garden. A few well-chosen projects now can transform how it looks and feels all summer without costing a fortune.

Here are some practical ways to get your garden up and running.

Create privacy with a pergola

Overlooking neighbours can make it hard to fully relax outdoors, especially in towns and cities. A pergola offers an instant solution.

Timber pergolas look attractive on their own, but they really come into their own when clothed in climbing plants. Try:

• Honeysuckle for scent

• Clematis for long-lasting colour

• Passionflower for an exotic touch

• Climbing roses for classic romance

For real impact, train wisteria over the top. Its late spring and early summer flowers are spectacular, and the leafy canopy provides welcome shade in hotter weather.

Pergola kits are widely available from major retailers, making this an achievable weekend project for most gardeners.

Plant a butterfly-friendly corner

Butterfly numbers remain in long-term decline, despite periods of warm weather that should favour them. Gardens can play an important role in providing food and shelter.

Choose a warm, sunny, sheltered spot and fill it with nectar-rich plants.

If you’re wary of buddleja taking over, opt for a compact variety such as the purple-red ‘Sugar Plum’, which offers the same nectar appeal in a smaller space.

Other reliable plant choices include:

• Verbena bonariensis – sow under cover from March to April

• Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana) – sow in spring for nectar-rich summer flowers

These plants are consistently loved by butterflies and will bring movement and life to your borders.

Showcase auriculas in a theatre

Auricula theatres aren’t just for specialist collectors. They make a striking and characterful feature on a garden wall.

Traditionally made from pine and sealed with yacht varnish, modern versions can be painted in outdoor wood paint to suit your style. Darker shades work particularly well, helping the jewel-like blooms stand out.

Position your theatre somewhere:

• Sheltered from strong winds

• Protected from direct sun

• Stable enough to keep clay pots secure

Auriculas dislike baking conditions, so a cool, protected spot is key to success.

Give hedgehogs a safe haven

Hedgehogs are valuable garden allies, feeding on slugs and other pests. Sadly, they’re now classified as vulnerable to extinction in Britain. But gardeners can help.

The British Hedgehog Preservation Society recommends leaving a strip of grass or a verge to grow a little wilder. This provides natural food and shelter.

You can also install a hedgehog house in a quiet, sheltered corner. These small wooden shelters give hedgehogs a safe place to rest and avoid predators. Specialist hedgehog food is available from garden centres to provide balanced nutrition if needed.

Install a garden weather station

Spring weather can be unpredictable, with late frosts posing a real threat to tender plants.

Digital garden weather stations allow you to monitor:

• Temperature

• Rainfall

• Humidity

• Wind speed and direction

Many models connect via WiFi to indoor displays or smartphone apps. More affordable versions include greenhouse sensors, giving you advance warning to switch on heaters when frost is forecast.

It’s a practical upgrade for gardeners who like to stay one step ahead of the weather.

Build a cold frame

Moving young plants straight from a cosy greenhouse into open ground can cause shock. A cold frame allows you to harden them off gradually.

By slowly acclimatising plants to cooler conditions, you’ll strengthen growth and reduce setbacks.

You can buy ready-made cold frames, but a simple version can be built from:

• Wooden pallets

• House bricks

• Reclaimed windows as lids

Place your cold frame on a level, sturdy base in a sunny, sheltered position for best results.

Tackle lawn moss the easy way

Moss thrives in lawns that are poorly drained, compacted or acidic. Traditional moss killers work, but raking out dead moss is hard work.

Modern moss removers take a different approach. They kill and digest moss, reducing or even eliminating the need for raking.

Several organic-based options are available that break down moss naturally, making lawn care less of a springtime chore.

Restore tired timber furniture

Before replacing weathered hardwood furniture, consider restoring it.

Early spring is ideal. Start by cleaning thoroughly and allowing the wood to dry. Then:

Sand to remove old paint or treatments

Apply a wood restorer to revive the natural colour

Finish with an outdoor wood stain or teak oil for protection

With a little effort, you can bring tired pieces back to life and have them ready for summer gatherings.

A few focused projects now will set your garden up for a successful season — whether you’re creating privacy, supporting wildlife or simply making outdoor life more enjoyable.

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