Bearded irises earn their place in the garden long before they flower. Their grey, sword-shaped leaves stand upright for months, giving strong vertical structure in borders. When the flowers arrive, they are unmistakable, with three drooping falls and three upright standards in a wide range of colours.

All shapes and sizes

The ‘bearded’ part of the name refers to the raised stripe along the centre of the falls, often described as a caterpillar. This usually contrasts in colour and adds extra detail to the flower.

Bearded irises are grouped into six categories, based on height.

The earliest to flower are the Miniature Dwarf Irises (MDI). These reach around 15cm and bloom weeks before most perennials. They suit sunny border edges and rockeries.

At the other end of the scale are the Tall Bearded Irises (TBI), reaching just over 1m. They flower in May and June and are regulars at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.

Several other groups sit between these two, offering a wide range of heights and flowering times. Many gardeners and breeders have introduced new varieties over the years, so there is plenty of choice.

The latest look

New irises are introduced every year, although older varieties are often just as valuable. Many have proved reliable over time, with elegant flowers and good garden performance.

Recent breeding has favoured plants with several very large flowers on each stem. Some gardeners enjoy this bold look, while others find varieties such as ‘Dusky Challenger’ too top-heavy.

All bearded irises need space to perform well. A sunny corner of a border, or a warm strip along a wall or fence, suits them best. The flowers are lightly scented, make good cut blooms and cope well with summer rain. Winter waterlogging, however, is a problem and should be avoided.

How to grow bearded irises

These sun-loving hybrids are descended from Middle Eastern species and grow from knobbly rhizomes rather than traditional roots.

• Plant with the rhizome just under the soil surface, facing the sun. Warmth and exposure help trigger flowering

• Keep them clear of neighbouring plants, as they dislike competition

• Avoid overfeeding. Apply a general fertiliser after flowering

• Divide clumps every three to four years in July or August

• Keep the freshest rhizomes and discard older sections

• Cut leaves back to 15 to 23cm to reduce wind rock after dividing

Five shorter irises for spring gardens - best for rockeries and border edges

‘Dunlin’: Miniature Dwarf Bearded. White flowers with dark blue edging and pale blue markings. Flowers in March. H: 15cm.

‘Gingerbread Man’: Dwarf Bearded. Butterscotch-brown flowers with violet-purple beards. Flowers from March to April and easy to find. H: 15 to 20cm.

‘Cherry Garden’: Small Dwarf Bearded. Plum-coloured flowers with a bright electric-blue beard. Flowers March to April. H: 20 to 25cm.

‘Langport Wren’: Intermediate Bearded. Raised by Kelways in the early 1970s. Deep purple flowers with a brown beard. Flowers in early May and works well at the front of a sunny border. H: 68cm.

‘Bumblebee Delight’: Medium Tall Bearded. Dark falls edged in gold with deep yellow standards. Raised in 1985 and award winning. H: 46cm.

Ten taller bearded irises for summer borders - mostly flowering in June

‘Benton Nigel’L Raised by Cedric Morris in the 1960s. Deep purple-blue flowers with brownish beards and a painterly feel. H: 1m.

‘Mer de Sud’: A French-bred Cayeux iris with ruffled cornflower-blue petals and darker beards. Strong foliage and very free flowering, so allow space. H: 80cm.

‘Braithwaite’: A 1952 variety with velvety purple falls edged pale and topped with lilac standards. Bright yellow beards lift the colour. One of the last to flower. H: 1m.

‘Going My Way’: Raised in 1971. White falls edged and splashed with deep violet, with broader, ruffled flowers. A strong and reliable garden plant. H: 94cm.

‘Quechee’: Mahogany-red flowers with golden beards and a noted chocolate-orange scent. Shorter than many and mixes well with pale blue plants. H: 90cm.

‘Carnaby’: A mid to late season iris from the 1970s. Peach-pink and lilac standards with rose-purple falls and vivid orange beards. H: 94cm.

‘Edith Wolford’: Ruffled flowers with pale yellow standards and lavender-violet falls, deepening towards the centre. Finished with an orange beard. H: 94cm.

‘English Cottage’: May flowering with pale violet-white blooms, often speckled and notably scented. Bred in America in 1976 and said to rebloom. H: 94cm.

‘Jane Phillips’ AGM: Raised in 1946. Pale blue, frilled flowers with brown veining on the falls and a partly white yellow beard. Very fragrant and well suited to summer borders. H: up to 1.2m.

‘Black Tie Affair’: Midnight blue to near-black flowers with a dark beard almost hidden by swirling petals. Elegant, well balanced and not overblown. H: 94cm.

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Dahlias are not just for flower shows. They offer excellent value in the garden, providing colour, cut flowers and support for pollinators. Bees are especially drawn to single flowered types, which are increasingly popular, while florists often favour the fuller double forms.

Unlike most summer flowering bulbs, dahlias bloom for months. Once they begin, they keep going until the first autumn frosts blacken the foliage. They are not frost hardy, so do not plant them outdoors until all risk of spring frost has passed.

If you have dry tubers, plant them as soon as possible. Be patient, as shoots can take a few weeks to appear.

Choose the right spot

Dahlias need:

• A warm, sunny position

• Rich, moisture retentive soil

Before planting, improve the soil by digging in plenty of garden compost, well rotted manure or old compost from spring containers. This helps the soil hold both moisture and nutrients.

After planting, scatter a general fertiliser around the plants and water thoroughly until they are well established.

If growing dahlias in pots, use a multi-purpose compost and feed regularly to support steady growth and flowering.

Planting and early care

• Water plants well before planting and remove them carefully from their pots.

• Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots comfortably. Plant at the same depth as they were in the pot, or slightly deeper. Firm the soil and water well so it settles around the roots.

• Young dahlias are vulnerable to slug and snail damage, so protect them as soon as they are planted.

• Pinch out the growing tips once plants are established to encourage bushier growth and more flowers.

Supporting tall varieties

Tall dahlias need support to prevent wind damage. In borders, place three canes around the plant and secure stems with one or two loops of garden twine. This is usually enough to keep plants upright through the season.

Top tips for success

• Dahlias are thirsty and heavy feeders, so fork in plenty of compost or well rotted manure before planting

• Mulch after planting to help retain moisture and add nutrients

• Water thoroughly to keep plants growing strongly

• Protect young growth from slugs and snails

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Beautiful tubs, hanging baskets and patio pots can transform a garden in summer. But tired, dried-up containers filled with brittle stems are just as common. The difference is usually care and routine. Here are straightforward answers to common container questions, so your displays stay colourful and healthy throughout the season.

How often should I water containers?

There are no fixed rules. The aim is to keep compost constantly moist, never waterlogged and never bone dry.

Check by pushing your fingers into the compost to feel for moisture.

To prevent overwatering:

• Lift pots off the ground using pot feet or small blocks of wood

• Avoid standing containers directly on paving, where drainage can be restricted

Poor drainage leads to waterlogging.

If you have several containers, a drip watering system can make life easier. It allows you to water everything with one turn of the tap.

Should I feed plants in pots?

Yes. Containers need feeding. There is rarely enough nutrition in compost to sustain a full season of growth, whatever the bag claims. The most impressive baskets are often fed through a drip system, with weak liquid feed added to the water little and often. This approach can be costly and complicated.

A practical alternative is:

• Feed weekly with a specialist container feed

• Or use tomato feed for all flowering containers

Both options work well and keep plants performing.

Why do windowbox plants fade after a strong start?

The most common problem is size. Some windowboxes are only 15cm deep and 15cm wide. They simply do not hold enough compost and can dry out the same day they are watered.

The solution:

• Choose larger boxes

• Or ask someone handy to make deeper ones

Fix them securely to the frame or sill to prevent accidents

If larger boxes are not an option, rethink planting. Instead of geraniums and lobelia, try drought-tolerant sempervivum houseleeks. The Chick Charms Series offers large, colourful rosettes and needs very little watering.

Are there colourful edibles for containers?

Some vegetables are not especially decorative, but others are surprisingly ornamental.Chard is a standout choice. Its stems come in red, orange, yellow, purple and white, either mixed or grown separately. The leaves are delicious lightly steamed.

Loose-leaf lettuces also work well. Pick leaves from the outside and allow new ones to form in the centre. The bronzed ‘Red Salad Bowl’ is particularly attractive.

For larger tubs, try runner beans. Varieties with red and white flowers such as ‘St. George’, or salmon pink flowers such as ‘Sunset’, add height and colour. Flowers can easily be tucked in among vegetables for extra interest.

Can a rose grow in a patio container?

Yes. Even a slightly shady patio can suit a rose, provided the shade comes from the side rather than directly overhead.

For best results:

• Choose a larger container than you think you need

• Use John Innes No 3 compost, which is heavy, moisture retentive and stable in windy conditions

• Petunias planted around the edge will soften the look and hide bare stems at the base.

Can I reuse last year’s compost?

It is not recommended. Old compost from baskets and tubs:

• Contains dead roots

• Has little nutrition left

• Can be lumpy

• May harbour disease

It is better spread as a mulch on borders.

Always use fresh compost in containers so roots can establish quickly in clean, nutrient-rich conditions. Some container composts include moisture-retaining granules, which can be useful in summer.

Do I really need to deadhead?

Yes. Deadheading keeps containers looking tidy and encourages more flowers rather than seed production.

Different plants need different approaches:

• Petunias can be snipped with scissors or pinched off

• Geranium flower heads can be snapped off where the stalk meets the main stem

• Lobelia often reblooms without deadheading, but a light trim followed by liquid feed helps

• Double fuchsias and double begonias often drop spent blooms themselves, though they may need sweeping up

Regular attention keeps displays fresh and productive.

Which fragrant flowers suit patio pots?

Few summer container plants are strongly scented, but some are worth seeking out. Garden pinks offer fully double flowers in a wide range of colours. The Scent First range includes 13 colours and bicolours. Heliotropes produce deep purple flowers with a rich vanilla scent. They can be harder to find, but are well worth growing. Nemesias are increasingly available, and the Melody Series is particularly fragrant.

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Flowering cherries are among the most popular ornamental trees. Each spring, cherry blossom festivals take place around the world. In the UK, Kew Gardens and Cornwall’s Eden Project host their own celebrations and even Swindon joins in.

Across North America, from chilly Michigan to warm Georgia, flowering cherries are widely admired. In Japan, breeding and celebrating these trees has become an art form, with some varieties more than 1,000 years old.

Their main attraction is the spectacular spring blossom. Flowers range from deep reddish pink to pure white, single or double, and most open in spring with a few flowering in winter.

Displays can be breathtaking. Some varieties produce vast clouds of blossom that hide the branches. As petals fall, they carpet the ground for a few short weeks. After that, interest comes from richly coloured young foliage, fiery autumn leaves or, in some cases, glossy ornamental bark. The best choices combine more than one of these features.

Top flowering cherries to grow

Prunus mume ‘Beni-chidori’: Flowering can begin as early as January in a bright, sheltered spot, or in March in more exposed sites. The single, bowl-shaped flowers are reddish pink and carry a strong almond scent, unusual among flowering cherries. Slow growing, ‘Beni-chidori’ suits training as a multi-stemmed shrub or growing in a large container. Take care not to overwater container plants or allow them to dry out. An excellent patio cherry. H&S: 1.5-2m AGM

Prunus ‘Accolade’: A true classic, valued for two key features. Graceful, pendulous branches carry clusters of semi-double pink flowers that open deep pink and fade to blush white. They appear before many other cherries have begun to flower. In autumn, foliage turns fiery shades of orange and red, adding fresh impact later in the year. H&S: 4-6m AGM

Prunus ‘Royal Burgundy’: A cherry that offers more than a brief spring display. Double, rose-pink flowers are preceded by deep purple young foliage. In autumn, leaves turn bronze. This combination delivers colour across three seasons. H: 8-12m, S: 4-8m AGM

Prunus sargentii ‘Charles Sargent’: Often considered one of the finest flowering cherries. While bullfinches may eat the flowers of many cherries, they tend to leave this one untouched. It features chestnut-brown bark, bronzed young foliage and single pink flowers opening in late March. Autumn brings crimson and flame-coloured leaves, followed by small red cherries. H: 12m, S: 8m AGM

Prunus serrula ‘Branklyn’: Grown primarily for its outstanding, shining mahogany-coloured bark, which brings strong winter interest. Unlike the species, which becomes broad and spreading with age, ‘Branklyn’ develops a narrower crown, making it better suited to smaller spaces. The bark is especially glossy and uninterrupted. White flowers appear in spring, followed by yellow autumn foliage. H&S: 4-8m AGM

Prunus incam ‘Okamé’: A compact tree, ideal where space is limited. Carmine flowers appear in early spring. After a quieter summer, foliage turns vivid shades of orange and red in autumn, creating a striking second display. H&S: 4-5m AGM

Prunus ‘Spire’: Selected for its upright, vase-like growth. In spring, it produces soft pink flowers. Its parent, Prunus sargentii, is known for spectacular autumn colour, and ‘Spire’ inherits that same fiery display. A strong choice for vertical interest and autumn impact. H: 8m, S: 5m AGM

Prunus yedoensis ‘Somei-Yoshino’: A beautiful tree best suited to larger spaces. It develops a broad, umbrella-shaped crown that can heavily shade smaller gardens when mature. Pale pink buds open to pure white, almond-scented flowers among bronzed young leaves. Consider it for a spacious plot or a commemorative planting in a public setting. H: 12m, S: 6m AGM

Prunus ‘Shirotae’: Combining vigour with moderate size, this variety develops wide-spreading or gently pendulous branches, often forming an elegant, flat-topped shape. In April, it bears large 5cm pure white fragrant flowers in long, dangling clusters. Autumn foliage turns yellow and orange. H&S: 4-6m AGM

Prunus subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’: Unlike the others listed, this variety does not hold the RHS Award of Garden Merit. However, it offers something different. Semi-double white flowers can begin opening in November and continue through mild spells into March. While the display is less intense than spring-flowering types, the long season brings welcome blossom through winter, even for Christmas arrangements. H&S: 4-6m

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There was a time when beetroot meant a jar of sliced roots in malt vinegar. While pickled beetroot still has its fans, it’s now just as likely to be roasted in olive oil, grated raw into salads or blended into soups, dips and juices.

With its sweet, earthy flavour, beetroot is easy to grow from seed in veg patches, allotments, raised beds or large containers. Homegrown crops not only taste better, they also give access to varieties rarely seen in supermarkets.

And beetroot isn’t limited to round, purple roots. There are white, yellow, orange and red types, along with striking two-tone varieties. Even purple roots come in different shapes, from spherical and cylindrical to long, tapering or flattened like a doughnut.

What to grow

Around 50 beetroot varieties are available in the UK.

‘Boltardy’, introduced in the 1980s, produces round purple roots and is widely grown for its resistance to bolting. ‘Detroit 2 Crimson Globe’ is an improved form of ‘Detroit’. ‘Cylindra’ produces long, slim, cylindrical dark pink roots that are ideal for slicing.

For something other than purple, try:

• ‘Albina Vereduna’ – an old Dutch variety with round white roots and a mild, sweet flavour

• ‘Avalanche’ – a white-rooted American variety with similar sweetness

• ‘Burpee’s Golden’ – bred in the USA in the 1940s, with burnt orange skin and golden flesh

For real visual impact, choose varieties with concentric rings inside the root:

• ‘Chioggia’ – an Italian heirloom with pink and white rings

• ‘Morello’ – red-purple flesh with contrasting pink-white rings

• ‘Golden Eye’ – alternating dark and light gold rings

The ring pattern fades when cooked, but raw slices or grated roots add colour to salads and slaws.

Where to raise beetroot

Beetroot grows best in a sunny spot but will tolerate partial shade.

It prefers light, well-drained, fairly fertile soil. Improve poorer ground with garden compost if needed. Avoid damp soil, very acidic or alkaline conditions and very stony ground, which can cause misshapen roots.

Prepare the soil by:

• Forking it over and removing weeds and large stones

• Raking to break up clumps

• Levelling the surface by filling hollows and flattening mounds

The soil is ready when the surface is even and the top 5-7.5cm has a texture like coarse breadcrumbs.

Beetroot also grows well in raised beds and containers. Round-rooted varieties are best for pots. Choose containers at least 30cm wide and 20cm deep. Multi-purpose compost can be used, but loam-based John Innes No.2 compost provides a structure closer to garden soil.

Sowing, growing and harvesting

Before sowing, soak the ‘seeds’ in warm water for about an hour. Each ‘seed’ is actually a dried fruit case containing up to six seeds. Soaking softens the corky outer layer and helps dissolve natural chemicals that inhibit germination.

Make a trench 2.5cm deep using a bamboo cane. Mark the ends of the row with labels to avoid confusing seedlings with weeds.

Sow two seeds every 10cm along the row. Cover with soil and water lightly. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, thin them to leave the strongest plant at each 10cm spacing.

Keep the area weed free and water regularly, especially in dry spells. Consistent moisture helps roots swell evenly, reduces splitting and lowers the risk of plants running to seed.

Harvest when roots are young and about the size of a golf ball. Loosen the soil with a hand fork and pull gently using the leafy stems.

Top tip

For a steady supply from summer into autumn, sow a fresh batch of seeds every two weeks until the end of July.

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Planting out tomatoes is one of the real signs that summer is on its way. The scent of the leaves and the promise of the first ripe fruits make it an exciting job in the garden.

When you plant will depend on when you sowed your seeds and where the plants will grow. Tomatoes do not tolerate frost, so it is too early to plant them outside while there is still a risk.

But they can be planted safely in a greenhouse where there is enough heat to keep out frost or in a polytunnel if you live in an area of the UK that generally has a milder spring climate.

Choose the right spot and growing method

Tomatoes are straightforward to grow and very versatile. They thrive in:

• Pots

• Growing bags

• Beds

• Hanging baskets

Avoid planting them in the same soil every year, especially if potatoes were grown there the previous season. Many gardeners choose containers for this reason, as fresh compost reduces the risk of problems. However, tomatoes will also grow very well in ordinary garden soil.

Pick strong, sturdy plants

Whether you have grown your own or bought them, choose stocky, sturdy plants. It is a good sign if the seed leaves are still attached.

Some varieties grow quite tall before producing their first truss, or flower cluster. To prevent this, keep young plants in their small pots until you can see tiny flower buds forming. Continue feeding and caring for them so they stay healthy and growing steadily.

Top tips for planting tomatoes

• Keep seedlings fed and in good light so they stay sturdy until planting time

• Plant into pots or greenhouse borders once the first flowers appear in the growing tips

• In growing bags, plant two tomatoes per bag, or three at most

• In a greenhouse or polytunnel, tie twine loosely around the base of each plant and twist the stem around it as it grows

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To make the most of your outdoor space, consider growing up, not out! Walls and windows often go unused, yet they offer valuable planting space. Bare brick can be transformed with a mix of fillers, spillers and a few standout plants. If a window has a ledge, railing or balcony, it can support a windowbox or a wall-mounted bracket.

Plug plants are a cost-effective way to fill containers. They grow quickly and soon bulk out a display. For instant impact, choose larger plants.

Choosing plants for sun or shade

A windowbox can look striking in both sunny and shady positions. The key is combining different plant types:

• Trailing plants to spill over the edges

• Evergreen or foliage plants to fill gaps and add structure

• One or two flowering plants to provide colour and interest

A well-planted windowbox can also attract pollinators. For something practical, plant herbs instead. Fresh leaves are then within easy reach whenever they are needed for cooking.

Planting and care

Containers dry out faster than garden soil, so regular watering is essential. Feeding is also important, especially during dry spells when rainwater is limited.

When planting a windowbox:

• Make sure there are drainage holes

• If holes are large, use a liner so compost does not fall out

• Fill with peat-free compost

• Position plants, firm them in and water well

• Top dress with a thin layer of grit or small stones to help retain moisture

Always consider the final height and spread of plants, along with the overall weight of the filled windowbox. Brackets must be strong and securely fixed.

Practical tips

• Evergreens are useful for shady spots, adding year-round foliage. A woodland-style mix of ferns, cyclamen and ivy works well

• Small balconies suit clusters of compact pots filled with plants such as dianthus and bright foliage like golden marjoram

• English ivy is a hardy, evergreen trailing plant that is easy to care for and ideal for softening container edges

• Windowboxes can make a bold statement. Bulbs are a simple way to introduce a burst of bright, seasonal colour

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